Cropped Wool Jacket

Some pieces in your closet are worn more then others. Some pieces are favorites, and you didn’t realize it when you bought or made them. One of my favorite jackets was ready for a replacement and I took on the challenge to make one.

A few years ago I bought a Collectif jacket in the sale. It was green with white fauxfurr cuffs and there was a pencil skirt in the same colour. At the time I didn’t really liked green but I liked that it looked like a suit when worn together and it was marked down significantly. So in the virtual shoppingcart it went.

The jacket. Picture form fall 2016 in Disneyland Paris.

I only worn the jacket and skirt together a few times. The skirt being way to big for my waist (due to a large waist-hip difference). But the jacket was something else. It has been a staple in my closet ever since.

I bought the set in four years ago in 2015 and it was time to replace it. I was thinking about buying a similar jacket from the same brand but also liked the thought of making one. Making my own winter coat with a wool fabric has been on my to-sew list for over a year. I already bought a pattern some time ago for a long wide 1950’s style coat. But since it needs five meters of fabric (plus lining, interlining and notions…) it’s an expensive project. I’ve never sewn something with wool before and the only jacket I’ve ever made was a jeans jacket. So I thought this cropped jacket would be a good practice.

The main fabric for my jacket was a remnant sold by a local fabric store. They had a few of these pieces sold at €20 a piece. I chose the grey because it’s versatile, I liked the colour, texture and it was one of the bigger pieces at 1.40×2.10m.

For the pattern I searched the internet for a good pattern. I wanted it to be cropped just below the waist and I loved the princess seams and faux fur detail on my original jacket. I couldn’t find a pattern I loved, or my fabric wasn’t enough. I decided to check my pile of Knipmode magazines (a Dutch sewing magazine with patterns) for something that would be a good base.

The problem with the Knipmode coat patterns is that they are loose fitting and long. So I chose a formal blazer that had the design lines I wanted. Firstly I made a muslin in my size to check the fit. Then I shorted the jacket by a lot to be the length I wanted and added the faux fur cuffs and drew a simple collar. The pattern actually came with a collar but it was on a stand and a stand with thick wool… nope 😉

Muslin of the jacket made out of scrap-cotton.

For the lining I chose a soft pink fabric, the cuffs and collar are faux fur. For closures I got black snaps and buttons to tie in with the black fur.

Overall, sewing this was less of a challenge then I thought. Sewing in the lining was a bit of a challenge, especially on thick bits with the collar. Also pressing the seams open is very different on wool then on the cotton I sew with most of the time.

To reduce bulk I made the under-collar of the grey wool. I also did snaps instead of buttonholes since sewing button holes in the wool didn’t seem like something that would be succesful. Lastly I added shoulder pads for more structure.

The end result!

I’m so happy with the results. I hope this jacket will suit me as long as the previous one did.

Please leave a comment below, I would love to hear what you think about this jacket!

4 thoughts on “Cropped Wool Jacket

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